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Bigne’ (Pâte à Choux)
Cream Puff Dough
Copyright © 2003, 2004, 2005 Anna Maria Volpi - All Rights reserved.
The cream puff is believed to have originated in Italy. When Catherine de Medici moved to France in 1533 she brought with her to France her entire court, which included her chefs. Her head chef by the name of Panterelli made gâteaux with a dried hot dough he invented, called pâte à Panterelli. The pastry later became know as pâte à Popelin, and Popelins were a form of cake made in the Middle Ages in the shape of large puffs. Perfected by Avice and later by Antoine Carême, this dough became the same recipe for choux pastry as it is used today.
The Choux Pastries dough, called panade, is the only dough that is cooked before being baked. It starts with simple dough of water, butter, flour, and eggs. During baking the eggs help form a thin crust on the outside, while the steam trapped inside expands giving to the pastries a typical puffed hollow shape.
Improperly called bigne’ in Italian, the Pâte à Choux are a simple type of pastries that can be easily transformed in many, sometime spectacular, preparations.
The pastries can be filled and assembled to form Profiterols, Croquenbouche (stacks of profiteroles glued together with caramel), gâteau St.-Honoré, etc.
In Italy Choux Pastries filled with custard are often stacked in a tall pyramidal shape. Chocolate is poured on the stack and decorated with whipped cream.
Choux Pastries can also be filled with savory mousse or cream to make delicious appetizers.
In the picture Choux are filled with Salmon Mousse.
In spite of the simple preparation the Pâte à Choux requires a few precautions:
1) The quantity of egg should be just right. If the recipe calls for 4 eggs I add the first 3 and the last a little at the time in order to control the consistency. Too much egg will cause the panade to be too liquid and unable to hold the shape when is baked.
2) The panade needs to be cooked carefully till is smooth and dry. If it is undercooked the ingredients could be un-evenly mixed, and it would retain too much moisture.
3) Do the preparation very quickly. Piping and baking the panade immediately when is still warm will help lightness and expansion.
4) Bake the pastries until they are crisp, dry and golden. If the pastries are undercooked they could collapse when they are removed from the oven. Also it is preferable to cool the pastries slowly in the oven.
Ingredients
1 cup (230 cc) water
4 tablespoons (55 gr) unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup (140 gr) all purpose flour
4 large eggs
Bake for about 35 minutes or until well puffed and golden. Shut off the heat , open the oven half way, and let the puffs cool slowly and dry for about 1 hour. The puffs may collapse if they are cooled too fast.
Place the water, butter, and salt in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil. When the butter is completely melted, remove from the heat and add the flour all at once.
Mix rapidly with a spatula . . . .
. . . . until fully combined.
Place the mixture on the stove on low heat, and dry mixing for about 5 to 6 minutes. The dough should be soft and shouldn’t be sticky.
Transfer to a bowl and spread to cool. Let the dough cool for at least 5 minutes.
*** NOTE ***
If the bottom of the pan is covered with a thin whitish crust this is an indication that the dough is sufficiently dried.
Add the eggs one at the time . . .
. . . . mixing thoroughly after each one is added . . . .
Add the last egg a little at the time to control consistency in case the eggs are too big.
. . . . so that the dough is smooth.
The dough should be smooth, shiny and as thick and as heavy as mayonnaise. Preheat oven 370 F (190 C).
Using a pastry bag filled with the dough or a spoon, make small balls about 1 -inch (2 - 3 cm ) size.
Cover a large cookie sheet with parchment paper. Fill a pastry bag with the dough.
Brush the top with the egg wash.